Which 700r4 to use




















Later is better. Most of the early transmissions have failed and been either overhauled or replaced with the updated parts by now. I was in dealerships when they first introduced the R4 for the 82 model year. For historical information around January 82 we had a recall with a stop delivery order on all such equipped vehicles in dealership inventory.

We replaced complete transmission assemblies on all affected vehicles, both in stock and previously customer delivered vehicles. I forget exactly what the failure was or which parts were affected. Also there were some later changes made about that affected replacement parts, you would replace for example can't remember exactly what, just for example a sprag and you would have to replace a drum and other items as the new design had so many changes made the original would not work with the replacement.

Hope this is some help, unfortunately time dims memory and I don't rebuild automatic transmissions myself. Joined: Oct 7, Posts: Profile Page.

Just did this on the OT '70 c Speedo is an easy changeover, 87 may still have cable, my 89 had a rare gear to electric convertor. Call Bowtie Overdrives for the TV kit.

Works good, run a cooler after the rad, esp. Good luck! Joined: Aug 30, Posts: Profile Page. Look for one with a CZ code, they are out of the performance vehicles. I have heard they have the better servos and clutches. Joined: Dec 18, Posts: 8, Profile Page. You will want a these have the lubrication upgrades and are still non-computer. JeffB2 , May 3, Thanks guys! Joined: Feb 26, Posts: 1, Profile Page. I believe by the upgrades to the R4 were made that corrected issues with the earlier unit.

I believe it is the CZ code. I have noticed it has much firmer shift points than other 's I've driven. Not harsh, just not sloppy. Type: Automatic four-speed overdrive with torque converter clutch.

Gear Ratios: 1st Maximum Gross Weight: lbs. Fluid Capacity: 11 qts. The cross member will need to be moved two or three inches. The passing gear cable bracket on the motor can be reused. The passing gear cable connection on the carburetor can be reused, if you have the original carburetor.

If you have a Holley or Edelbrock carburetor you need a carburetor adapter. Our Usually this part will correct a hard light throttle shift.

With this kit getting the correct geometry is easy. If you have a R4 transmission and one of these two carburetors you need this part. You will need a new R4 throttle valve cable and dip stick. The shift linkage can be reused. D will be OD, 2 will be D and 2nd and 1st will be to the left and right of the 1. If you have a transmission now with a nine inch tail the drive shaft will not need to be cut. The drive shaft yoke is the same on both transmissions.

The vacuum line will need to be removed. The cooling line positions stay the same. The auxiliary cooler always goes in the top return line on a R4 transmission. If you want the torque converter to lock-up you must in install a lock-up kit in the transmission pan.

Our part This is an adapter plate to install the R4 transmission on an Olds, Buick or Pontiac motor. The drive shaft will need to be cut and a smaller yoke installed.

The cross member can be used in the same location, if you use a special R4 tail housing. This moves the rear transmission mount to the same position as a TH transmission with a 9 inch tail housing and 32 spline output shaft. The TH 9 inch tail housing with the 27 spline output shaft has the same mount position as the 4 inch tail housing. With some modification to the 2 mount bolt holes on the crossmember this extension housing can eliminate crossmember modifications when replacing a TH with a 4 inch tail, 9 inch tail with a 27 spline output shaft or R transmission with a R4 assembly.

You will need a way to connect the throttle valve cable to the carburetor. If you have a Holley or Edelbrock carburetor use 29 above. See 49 above. The throttle valve cable and motor bracket can be reused.

The throttle valve cable connection on the carburetor can be reused, if you have the original carburetor. See 29 above. The cooling line positions on the transmission will need to be swapped, because the return line on a R is on the bottom and the R4 is on the top. Comes with the flywheel, adapter plate, flywheel adapter, dust cover and bolts. See the AOD page for more details. With the ERA, you simply hook up four wires, set the DIP switches according to the calibration table included with your order, and you are ready to go.

The automotive industry has a great variety of part sizes, types, shapes and descriptions, but regardless of make, model or year, a few things are standard. One of those standards has been the number of revolutions a speedometer cable will make for each mile travelled.

Nowadays, electronic pulses have replaced the rotating cable, but the same principle applies. The Pulse Ratio the number of pulses per mile travelled remains the same, regardless of speed, since the same distance is travelled and the same number of pulses have occurred each mile no matter what the speed was during that mile. However, this Pulse Ratio can be made to vary from the true when modifications are made which change the number of electronic pulses per mile on a particular vehicle.

This is most commonly caused by changing the tire size increasing the outside diameter of the tires will cause the tire to travel further before making a complete revolution , but other modifications could have the same result. This relative difference between true speed and the speed indicated on the speedometer is called the Variance Ratio, and it is corrected using the Electronic Ratio Adapter.

The reason being the thin steel plates warp up from the extreme heat then the thin clutches burn up. The thin steel plates will not dissipate the heat fast enough. The problem is a combination of thin and narrow design of the steel plates.

Thin red clutches used with thin steels work well in all transmissions, but not in the R4 transmission clutch pack with high horse power. For these reasons we only use the more expensive Raybestos Blue Plate Special clutches with full thickness steels or Alto Red Eagle clutches with full thickness Kolene steels in our level 3, 4 and 5, Raptor transmission clutch packs.

Eight clutches are the maximum number you can use in the clutch pack with full thickness steels. Nine clutches used with thin steels will not work with over horse power. For this reason we only use the Alto Carbonite PowerBand in the standard width on our level 2, 3 and 4, Raptor transmissions or the Alto wide Power Bands with a new drum.

Even a used drum that looks perfect will not work. Some have machined the drum in an effort to give the wide band a flat surface to ride on.

This only weakens the drum and makes it cup worse the next time. The extra wide Alto Power Bands are the best and work great if used with a new drum. The off brand planet gears are made of weak steel and crack like glass. We use two new OEM 5 pinion planet gears in our top of the line level 4, Mega Raptor transmissions. An accumulator is a shock absorber to keep from breaking parts and makes for a better shift feel.

Anybody can build a transmission with hard shifts without any more holding power than a stock transmission. Beware of homemade shift kits! Holding power and firm fast shifts come from using the proper combination of clutches, bands, hard parts and pressures. If the above parts wont work for us how could they possibly work for you? Some of the above parts might work in light duty use with a stock motor. You want the good parts that have been proven to last.

We sell the total package , not something that will cost more in the long run or cost more after you buy everything you need one part at a time. We have shipped these transmissions all over the world.

Regardless if you believe what you read on this page or not this knowledge comes from my 62 years of experience working on cars. Most of the performance R4 companies out there have no idea what works and what will not. It takes many years and thousands of R4 performance rebuilds to get this knowledge.

We are the original, not a copy cat. Many others try to copy us. We use the better R4 parts in the correct combination that will work together.

If you think these things will work in a R4 performance application maybe I can interest you in some snake oil or a game of three card Monte.

Some of this junk will work with a stock motor in light duty use. A R4 performance transmission is the hardest transmission in the world to get the correct combination of parts that will work together and last. It has taken us many years to find the correct combinations. The people who buy our R4 transmissions want the real Raptor transmission, the original not a cheap copy. Some have made things appear hard to do, such as cooling lines and throttle valve cable adjustments in an effort to sell you their expensive package to do these things.

Wake up! In an effort to make the price appear low such things as torque converters, core charges, freight fees, throttle valve cable, dip stick and tube, coolers, deep pans, T-shirts and others are usually an extra charge.

Ask yourself this question. We only use a Corvette intermediate servo in our stock R4 transmissions. The performance intermediate servo we use in all of our level 2, 3, 4 and 5, Raptor transmissions cost us 6 times as much as a Corvette servo. Get your moneys worth, you want the good parts. You must have a transmission cooler in your radiator regardless of what someone has told you for the transmission to last.

Auxiliary coolers are just that, in addition to. Water cools 32 times better faster than air always, period. In the case of air vs. The transmission fluid comes directly from the torque converter at a much higher temperature than the water in your radiator and is cooled to the water temperature fast. Then it goes to the auxiliary cooler to be cooled far below the water temperature. If you wanted to cool a red hot piece of steel fast would you stick it in water or air, see the point.

Your transmission will run cooler with a lock-up converter. This is more important with stall speeds of RPM or higher. They leave most of the high dollar parts out. Oh, and they forgot to add the core charge to their price on the chart. This is the old apples and oranges trick. We got a quote from them and by the time they added all of the upgrades the price was higher than our level 4 Mega Raptor transmission. They claim to be able to buy parts for less than other performance R4 companies, this is pure bull.

They now say on their site that their transmission is infamous. I looked this up and the definitions are: 1 Having a reputation of the worst kind. This same company says on their website not to use a transmission cooler in the radiator, showing a complete misunderstanding of how transmission cooling works. They have now changed their name to look more like our name. Another California performance R4 transmission company is in bankrupt court at this time for making and selling counterfeit parts.

Update This same company has been busted for the second time as of for making counterfeit parts, this will be the end of the road. Couple this with the 2. This will be the biggest thing in R4 advancements in years.

These will have a 2. This close ratio R4 gear set will have a In other words the close ratio gear set will only have This is what people have been asking for, for years. These will work on any 4L60E type transmission without a gear ratio error code, if the PCM is modified. The carrier is made from E billet steel and the pinion gears are steel.

If you raise the car and take a look at the area around the rear of the transmission, if the cable coming out of it is pretty thick with a big circle that screws into it, you have a mechanical speedometer. If you find a speedometer sensor, you have an electronic speedometer. If you have a mechanical speedometer — Check if you can see any problems with the speedometer wire, replace it if you can see any signs of wear or other damage. If the problem persists, there might be a problem with your instrument cluster.

If you feel vibrations while you are accelerating your car, there is most likely a problem with the driveshafts, prop shaft, or torque converter. If you feel vibrations all the time and not only on acceleration, you may have unbalanced tires. If your transmission is not shifting correctly, you might want to check the TV cable adjustment, as discussed before.

There are some common problems that you should always check first when you are troubleshooting your r4 transmission. There is a switch on the brake pedal, which you should check the function to make sure it works correctly. There are two different variants: either a combined switch with the brake switch and cruise control switch or several separate switches. Check the wirings diagram, make sure the switch is working correctly, and get voltage to the switch.

A worn-out TV cable or a faulty adjustment is another common problem on the r4 transmission. If you can see any signs of wear or damage on the TV cable, replace it! The r4 transmissions sometimes leak, which can cause low transmission fluid levels , so you should always check to make sure they are okay. Some transmission has gone many years without a transmission fluid change, which can cause damage to the transmission.

Check the fluid level and replace and flush the transmission fluid if it looks dirty. Sometimes the torque converter can fail on the r4 transmission, unfortunately. These are often pretty expensive, and you need some skills to replace these. If you have done everything above and the transmission is still slipping, you might have to replace it. There are some videos on Youtube on how to replace the r4 converter.

If you have found a severe problem with your r4 transmission, you might want to replace the whole transmission. However, if you are going to replace parts for your transmission, I always recommend installing new components and never installing used parts if possible. Remember that most of these transmissions are old and start to get worn out, and the price for new parts is not very high.

If you are looking for just any parts for your r4 transmission or looking for a brand new transmission, I can recommend that you check it out on Amazon if you live in the USA or Europe. There are many new parts there for this transmission, and most of them are pretty high quality.

Check the recent customer reviews of the part to get an idea of the quality of the product. To see the parts, you can go to Amazon by clicking Here or checking the ad down below. If you are looking for used transmissions, you can either find them online, or because they are pretty standard, you can probably find them in any junkyard near you.

Remember to check the transmission closely before you make your purchase. Try to get as much information as possible about it, like the mileage, how many transmission fluid replacements were done, etc. Ask any car question in our new community! Magnus is the owner and main author of MechanicBase. He has been working as a mechanic for over 10 years, and the majority of them specialized in advanced diagnostics and troubleshooting.

Certified Automotive Diagnostic Technician. I may have missed it but what is the proper fluid level if you have to make a new dip stick? Properly filled when level with pan gasket or higher? I have a transmission 4YKHT is the ID stamped on the trans, could you tell me what its out of and any other information, I would really appreciate it, thank you.

The guy who I got it from said that it wouldn't shift on it's own but he could shift it if he started in low one and manually shifted through 2nd and 3rd but still wouldn't shift to overdrive.

I have figured out it's a r4 transmission and it powered by a 6. I'm trying to figure out what kind of valve body to put back in it. Hi, I've picked up a rebuilt early R4 transmission to swap in my '67 Camaro.

It has the orange corvette servo unit, but i can't find the Model Number Chart anywhere. I'm trying to find out what model it actually came from. Then i can confirm engine size BUT what is the model? Thank you. Adjust your info It works well but having trouble identifying transmission, trying to get proper signal for Dakota digital electronic to mechanical converter. This transmission has a multi-pin plug on the drivers side near the center of the transmission, plan to count number of pins today.

There is also a 2nd plug I believe just 2 pin located higher and farther back. This plug seems inconsistent with any thing I find, no tv cable on this drive train. There is a place for TV cable on throttle body linkage but no cable present. Mangos where are you located. Thank you for this article What type transmission I might have my answer now 2.

I'm guessing from Wikipedia its an S10 Pickup 3. What type of rear axle is it I want to transfer the rear drum brakes to Disc and Beef up the Shocks to heavy duty truck shocks and maybe beef up the rear diff as I am going to put a lot of electronics in it for a mobile recording studio 4.

Something you might not know but I want to raise the roof about 2 foot Thank you for being here. What does all this mean? I know the m is r but ch is model and i cant find anywhere. Can you point me in right direction? Do i check the connector color of my current transmission. Hi Good info on here. I am building my Right Hand Drive chevy truck. I picked up a r4 transmission with the serial number 6YNMH. I will install a 2" aftermarket column with column shift. My question is concerning the column linkage and if it will easily install on my Right hand drive since the column will be on the right side of the transmission, and what will be the best kit to use for the install.

Please help I have a transmicion with a number 9fmmb could you help me with just what this number thank you. Hi, thank you for all the good information but I am a little lost on my trans ID number ,it is 5YCH,I understand the 5,but not the rest,can you help me out?

Want to know model year for aR4 trans. Case has this stamping on it : Also K Serial number has been removed. What does these numbers mean on a R4 transmission? Okay Brother heres the deal maybe can honestly help as i am in dier need of expect advise. I bought 91 cadillac d'elegance last year.. Than hell broke loose it would rev high and than speedometer would go up slow. Than once I got 37ish it seems it would kick in..

Nooooow I bought another trans same kind its doing samething revs real high until I get to 23mph than like kicks in but sometimes the reving is still high. Even once its pass the 23mph.. Please help me I really want this fixed my engine is a n r4. I have a Riviera. Transmission works OK in drive. The transmission is engaged but it is like the brake is on? Reverse is OK. I don't want to force much harder on the gas because it is just not moving.

Again it is not slipping but rather just won't move the car. Unmarked cases are hit or miss. Are there any other I. Please help, I have a transmission with a number 7FAM-Y, could you help me with just what this number is telling? I have an 86 r4 and it's pouring fluid out of the front. I've replaced the front pump seal and the bolts are tight, and the pump doesn't look cracked, could it be the torque converter or maybe the O ring behind the pump.

I have an 86 suburban that will not move in overdrive or drive but will shift thru all gears if started in 1st. Manual shifting it runs like a champ. Tv cable is adjusted, gov. Any help is appreciated. I was told Dexron 4 for my r4 and that Dexron 6 is for newer vehicles Your comment that the 4L60 is electronically controlled is wrong. That started in mid as the 4L60E transmission. Mid , when the 4L60E came out, the square harness connector on the driver side horizontal was no more and became a round green connector on passenger side.

Vertically mounted in the case. What does the switch on the brake peddle do? Like what will it cause if it's not working? The identification I have on my K case is numbers only not alpha numeric



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